Friday, March 2, 2012

Forty Shades of Green: Ireland

Ohhhhh Ireland, how I missed you so! I was obviously a little biased going into the second half of the trip since I am SO lucky to have been to the beautiful Emerald Isle before (best grandparents ever! (: ), yet it still surprised me! I managed to have a better time than I ever thought - almost so much that I felt a little teeny tiny twinge of regret for not studying abroad there. But only a little! I LOVE EDINBURGH, and am oh so happy here! Regardless, four days in Ireland was NOT enough. I need to go back ASAP.

Arrival in Dublin was a little rough due to timing and lack of sleep, but getting to our LUXURY hostel changed everything. It was unbelievably nice. Practically a hotel. If anyone is traveling I highly recommend Generator hostels. I know there are a bunch of other locations around Europe.

(appropriate chandelier in the hostel, haha)

The first day was a lot of just wandering and planning. We had to obviously budget tours in Dublin and day trips around - figuring what was free, and how much everything cost. For the four days planned we did two day trips. The first trip was a MacCoole family Cliffs of Moher and Burren tour, the second a Wicklow and Glendalough tour. After scheduling we walked around Dublin sight-seeing various places like Christ Church Cathedral, and St. Patrick's Cathedral and gardens. We explored Camden Street, Temple Bar, St, Stephen's Green park, etc. etc. Found ahhhhmazing gelato (in Ireland? weird right?) - but seriously. SO. GOOD. We had a pretty early night in preparation for our early trip the next morning!





Upon meeting one of our guides at the tourist office the next morning we hopped on a bus to Galway (about a 2.5 hour ride) for our MacCoole family Burren tour. The brochure had talked a lot about how personal the tour is, and they did not disappoint! The company is run by cousins Caroline and John MacCoole - they take you on a tour of their personal family farm on the Burren in Oughtmama. I super highly recommend this to everyone and anyone!!! The weather was absolute shit, yet still so much fun! We transfered buses in Galway and were brought to the farm. Greeted by brother/cousin/person? Daragh and king-of-the-castle-Abe-Lincoln-look-alike Uncle John and his dogs! Like I said, the weather was disgusting so they suited the fifteen people or so up in wellies and rain gear to trek through their cow and calf filled farm, and up the small mountain behind them. There was a lot of slipping, a lot of sliding, and a lot of almost dying - but everyone made it out alive! I have to say if this was in the US, we probably would have had to sign 1000 waivers, haha. Despite already knowing a lot about what they were telling us (thanks Nana!), I loved every second of it! So informative and entertaining - filled with Irish pride, limestone, and fairy trees. After we couldn't stand the cold any longer they brought everyone into their "Grannie's House" for tea and cake. There were family pictures all over the walls, and a fire burning. I was in love. I LOVE IRELAND.





We continued on our way down Galway Bay, past the Arran Island, through Ballyvaughan (deja vu, Caldwells!!) and on to the Cliffs of Moher. This, I must admit, did illicit a bit of disappointment from me - I think I am bad luck! It was my third attempt to see them, and ultimately the third time I have been hit with nothing but thick fog and wind - I JUST CAN'T WIN. They do have a new visitor center that was interesting to poke around in, but I was NOT satisfied. Such a bummer. Maybe next time! (Never thought I'd have to say that, AGAIN). Still waiting to see a Puffin.

We stopped in Doolin for lunch and I got this heavenly seafood chowder - it really made me miss RI seafood though, mmmmmm! Headed back to Galway we stopped along the way at a few castle ruins and of course the Poulnabrone Portal Tomb - definitely had some flashbacks from a few years ago. By the time we made it to Galway it was 5 or 6 (and still raining) so we just walked around for an hour or so until it was time to get the bus back to Dublin. Although the rain really hindered a lot of the tour, I still had SUCH an amazing time. I can only imagine what it would've been like with cooperating weather!


Lovely view of the cliffs



Back in Dublin, Thursday was devoted primarily to many Irishmen's favorite past time: alcohol. The Old Jameson Distillery was conveniently located right next to my hostel - and while I had heard mixed reviews about their tours, it did not disappoint. While a lot of what the tour consisted of I had previously learned at the Heineken Brewery and Scottish Whisky Tour - it had a nice Irish twist! Apparently the "Dublin way" to drink Jameson is with cranberry and lime. I definitely thought that was a little strange, especially finding out that Jameson and ginger is the ENGLISH way - but upon trying it, I was pleasantly surprised! I guess you should trust the Irish when it comes to knowing about Jameson.





After Jameson we headed over the Guinness Storehouse. As thoroughly impressed with the Heineken Brewery as I was, Guinness may have topped them by a little bit! Firstly, the building is 8 floors, IN THE SHAPE OF A PINT - now, THAT is hard to compete with. In addition, it contains the 9000 year lease originally signed by Arthur Guinness in 1759. 9000 YEARS! The whole thing was self-guided, which is nice for pace - and as I said before, although I knew a lot of it already - the tour did not disappoint (I feel like I say that a lot - Either I'm an easy critic, or just lucky! Hopefully the latter). I have always been a fan of their advertising (the toucan!) so there was a TON of that to look at too. They teach you the "proper" way to drink it in a taste test, and the tour ends on top of the Storehouse in the gravity bar with some complimentary shamrocked Guinness and amazing panoramic views of Dublin. I never really expected myself to semi-enjoy the taste - but it was coffeelike so of courseee I liked it.



Gravity Bar

They make a shamrock with the tap


Our last day, and second day trip in Ireland was Friday. Now, I don't mean to play favorites, but the last day could have been it - and I almost DIDN'T go. Less driving and more interactive, this tour was even smaller than the first! Of course it was initially raining, but luckily, it cleared up by mid-afternoon. The absolute most wonderful tour guide ever TOMMY DANDY led us in his little bus through and around the Wicklow Mountains and into Glendalough. This, too, I had virtually done in the past - but it was pretty far back, making most of it a new experience all over. And I cannot emphasize enough how fantastic our guide Tommy was and how amazing the day was in total. I HIGHLY recommend it to anyone and everyone. While we didn't drive all that far we made lots of stops - if I went into too much detail this entry would be double the obnoxious length it already is. In short: Loch Bray, Oscar Wilde's childhood summer home, alllll through and around Wicklow National Park, the bridge in PS I Love You (Tommy played Galway Girl on the way...adorable), Loch Tay - "Guinness Lake", we stopped for tea and biscuits provided by the lovely Tommy and watched the beautiful sun come out, and had lunch in Glendalough Village - Lynham's of Lara. 


"Guinness Lake"

Tommy then gave us a guided tour of the St. Kevin's Monastery. While it has been TEN YEARS since the first time being there, I remembered so much of it vividly! And I couldn't help but take some "christmas card" photos - as similar as I could get to the originals of me and Conor - and of course, with one of my friends instead of him (sorry, Con!). We then had a few hours to explore the breathtaking upper and lower lakes and trails. All were color-coded depending on how long you wanted to hike for. I think the longest was up to six hours - and I honestly wish I had the time. I feel bad typing this because honestly no word or picture can really describe it. I LOVE IRELAND. I WANT TO LIVE THERE! The eventual drive back ( </3 ) was along the coast of Killiney Bay - unbelievably beautiful, of course. We even drove by Bono and Enya's houses, as well as a house once owned by both Van Morrison and Sean Penn. After saying our dreaded goodbyes and thank yous to the amazing Tommy Dandy we ended our trip at The Brazen Head - the oldest Pub in Ireland -- dating back to 1198!

Monastery 

Ten years later - thanks to Audrey for being my Conor stand-in



Tommy Dandy!

 Killiney Bay

Our flight back to Edinburgh was at 550, leaving not much time for sleep, but so worth it for the amazing week I had. I wish I could do it all over again! Somehow, someway it is already March (where does the time go?!?!?) and my spring break is swiftly approaching - I have no set plans yet, but who knows what will be in store!

Dreamboats & Petticoats: London

Let me first say that I ended up loving London way more than I thought I was going to! So many people, of course, had told me how much they loved the city, many times in fact, before. Yet, most of these people were from outside of the UK. Since being in Scotland, I have heard a lot of the opposite. It’s not that people here don’t like it, but many had said that it was just a big city, and when you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. Granted I did not consider the whole everlasting England/Scotland feud while considering their opinions, but I went into the trip with lower expectations than before. Coming out I felt the exact opposite! While it was “just a big city,” I loved it so much more than that (minus the expensive expenses, of course)! I really REALLY want to go back in the future. My friends and I managed to jam pack a lot into only about three full days…and there is still so much more I would like to see.


Unfortunately the arrival was not so great. We took a ten-hour overnight MegaBus for a reallllly good price. NOT worth it. Never again! I thought Tylenol PM and my six-plus hour ride bus history would do me fine. Definitely not. MegaBus overnight = MegaHell.

Our hostel was right on Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park. It was also pretty close to Notting Hill (although we never made it there --- next time!). Beautiful location and beautiful weather, for the most part, made a lot of the walking great! We did dapple in the bus system if we were REALLY far from somewhere, and then totally utilized the 7-pound Tube pass on the last day. Emphasis on “last” day - meaning LOTS of walking. I did not mind though, I think that’s the best way to see a city.




Upon arrival we walked over to Buckingham Palace to see if the Changing of the Guard was happening that day (only in the summer does it happen every day). Unfortunately, it wasn’t, so we continued on walking to Trafalgar Square – home of the National Gallery, Lions, and the OMEGA Official Olympic Countdown Clock. Admittedly I didn’t even know the Olympics were going to be in London this year. Oops. We walked through the National Collection, which was SO extensive. Tired from the night before we didn’t stay long enough to see everything, but definitely wandered around for about an hour or so. At this point it had started to rain so after lunch and some exploring we decided to try to go to the Museum of Natural History. Alas, a free kid-oriented museum on a rainy Saturday is not the best idea. They didn’t let us in. Such a bummer – but we went to the Science Museum next door. Also interesting, but pretty overwhelming for a bunch of tired tourists running on practically no sleep. After the Science Museum we went back for a pre-dinner nap – and eventually after a lot of confusion ended up wandering the ever-eventful Picadilly Circus (Times Square of London) and Oxford Street! SO MUCH SHOPPING. And for a poor traveling student it was a little depressing, but still fun to look around. I did find the Johnny Cupcakes London store, which I was thrilled about! I had looked up the address before leaving, but was pretty skeptical if we’d actually make it there. So happy I did! I then had to splurge on a London exclusive shirt, of course. Picadilly and Oxford are NUTS. Especially on the weekend. I loved walking by all of the theaters (Wicked, Phantom, Shrek, Mamma Mia, Les Miserables, Lion King, Billy Elliot, MJ’s Thriller, etc.) – I wish going to a show could have been in my budget. My friend Shelby went to see The Lion King, which was of course amazing – so jealous. Next time, definitely!





The next day was BEAUTIFUL. The walk through Kensington/Hyde Park was full of puppies and happiness (like Braidburn)! It made me want to live there. We went to the Changing of the Guard, which was of course JAM PACKED. I could only see at random points, and a little, but it was still cool to be at. Apparently the Queen came out (I honestly don’t even know if that happens), but my friend Kelly saw it. They played a bunch of songs from Phantom which definitely made it worth it. We took a walk through St. James’ Park after, on our way to THE LONDON EYE. Definitely one of the best things I did in London. Worth every pence! The London Eye is a 400ish foot tall ferris wheel on the River Thames.  The tallest in Europe, I think. The views were unbelievable. And we picked a perfect weather day. I don’t even have the words to explain how awesome it was – highly recommend to anyone going. On our walk to the eye was through Parliament Square, meaning Big Ben and Westminster Abbey. Both amazing to just be in the presence of. A symbol that is so widely recognized all over the world! Absolutely crazy to think about.



(At the top!!!!)



After the unbelievable London Eye we took the absolute longest walk of my life, though very scenic down the River Thames to the Tower of London. Unfortunately, upon arrival at 4:05, we were told that the last people are allowed through at 4:00. A little disappointed, but happy to be saving the money, we stayed around the area. I’m still pretty mad about not being able to get in, but it is a definite for next time. We saw the Tower Bridge and sunset on the area, which was beautiful, and went to St. Paul’s Cathedral on the way back.




Monday morning I spent the best seven pounds I think I have the entire semester: a daily Tube pass. Since it was the last day we were in London, and there were so many things we wanted to pack into the day, we decided to use the Tube. And while I am glad to have walked around so much, the Tube pass REALLY made the last day worth it. There was no way we would have gotten as much done without it!

After purchasing the pass we immediately went to satisfy all of our inner-Harry Potter nerds at King’s Cross Station. We got a little lost, and a little confused but eventually made it to Platform 9 and ¾! It was a little….underwhelming…but I’m still happy we did it. Next on the list were Abbey Road and Abbey Road Studios. About 100 angry drivers almost killed us but it was worth it to take an album photo! It is in a pretty busy area, surprisingly. Honestly, if I lived in London, I would just avoid it at all costs driving, I’m sure there must be another way around. There was a lot of Beatles graffiti around too, while a little obnoxious, was also pretty cool to look at. Camden Market was absolutely nuts! We probably stayed for at LEAST two hours and barely made a dent in walking around all of the different shops/stands/etc. Granted, a lot of it was pretty repetitive, but it just seemed SO never-ending, with a lot of unexpected surprises (and probably Tetanus if one was to decided to get a tattoo, but that’s besides the point, haha). I was impressed. The food was also amazing. I could’ve eaten there all day. I restrained from buying too much food or stuff, but HAD to get some fish and chips. So happy I did, as they were ahhhhhhmazingly delicious.







For two pounds (?) we also had to climb the 311 steps of The Monument, a commemoration of the great fire of London - and now have certificates to prove it! Another site with amazing views in luckily great weather. Finally, winding the trip down before preparation for our 5:00AM airport arrival, we made our last venture, to Harrods! Another London staple I have always wanted to go to, and I was NOT let down. Wow. The place is honestly a dream. If ONLY I had the money to afford more than 5% of the stuff in there. The food alone is enough to send someone into orbit. Wow. One day I’ll be back with actual money to spend (:





Next time (hopefully!): Regent’s Park, Notting Hill, Westminster Abbey, Tower of London, Theater show, Victoria and Albert Museum, Natural History Museum, Globe Theater, National Portrait Gallery.

Sorry for any awful errors - this was quite a long entry to write (with Ireland still to go, too!)

Dispatch - Valentine
Gotye - Somebody That I Used To Know
Marina & The Diamonds - I Am Not A Robot