Friday, March 2, 2012

Forty Shades of Green: Ireland

Ohhhhh Ireland, how I missed you so! I was obviously a little biased going into the second half of the trip since I am SO lucky to have been to the beautiful Emerald Isle before (best grandparents ever! (: ), yet it still surprised me! I managed to have a better time than I ever thought - almost so much that I felt a little teeny tiny twinge of regret for not studying abroad there. But only a little! I LOVE EDINBURGH, and am oh so happy here! Regardless, four days in Ireland was NOT enough. I need to go back ASAP.

Arrival in Dublin was a little rough due to timing and lack of sleep, but getting to our LUXURY hostel changed everything. It was unbelievably nice. Practically a hotel. If anyone is traveling I highly recommend Generator hostels. I know there are a bunch of other locations around Europe.

(appropriate chandelier in the hostel, haha)

The first day was a lot of just wandering and planning. We had to obviously budget tours in Dublin and day trips around - figuring what was free, and how much everything cost. For the four days planned we did two day trips. The first trip was a MacCoole family Cliffs of Moher and Burren tour, the second a Wicklow and Glendalough tour. After scheduling we walked around Dublin sight-seeing various places like Christ Church Cathedral, and St. Patrick's Cathedral and gardens. We explored Camden Street, Temple Bar, St, Stephen's Green park, etc. etc. Found ahhhhmazing gelato (in Ireland? weird right?) - but seriously. SO. GOOD. We had a pretty early night in preparation for our early trip the next morning!





Upon meeting one of our guides at the tourist office the next morning we hopped on a bus to Galway (about a 2.5 hour ride) for our MacCoole family Burren tour. The brochure had talked a lot about how personal the tour is, and they did not disappoint! The company is run by cousins Caroline and John MacCoole - they take you on a tour of their personal family farm on the Burren in Oughtmama. I super highly recommend this to everyone and anyone!!! The weather was absolute shit, yet still so much fun! We transfered buses in Galway and were brought to the farm. Greeted by brother/cousin/person? Daragh and king-of-the-castle-Abe-Lincoln-look-alike Uncle John and his dogs! Like I said, the weather was disgusting so they suited the fifteen people or so up in wellies and rain gear to trek through their cow and calf filled farm, and up the small mountain behind them. There was a lot of slipping, a lot of sliding, and a lot of almost dying - but everyone made it out alive! I have to say if this was in the US, we probably would have had to sign 1000 waivers, haha. Despite already knowing a lot about what they were telling us (thanks Nana!), I loved every second of it! So informative and entertaining - filled with Irish pride, limestone, and fairy trees. After we couldn't stand the cold any longer they brought everyone into their "Grannie's House" for tea and cake. There were family pictures all over the walls, and a fire burning. I was in love. I LOVE IRELAND.





We continued on our way down Galway Bay, past the Arran Island, through Ballyvaughan (deja vu, Caldwells!!) and on to the Cliffs of Moher. This, I must admit, did illicit a bit of disappointment from me - I think I am bad luck! It was my third attempt to see them, and ultimately the third time I have been hit with nothing but thick fog and wind - I JUST CAN'T WIN. They do have a new visitor center that was interesting to poke around in, but I was NOT satisfied. Such a bummer. Maybe next time! (Never thought I'd have to say that, AGAIN). Still waiting to see a Puffin.

We stopped in Doolin for lunch and I got this heavenly seafood chowder - it really made me miss RI seafood though, mmmmmm! Headed back to Galway we stopped along the way at a few castle ruins and of course the Poulnabrone Portal Tomb - definitely had some flashbacks from a few years ago. By the time we made it to Galway it was 5 or 6 (and still raining) so we just walked around for an hour or so until it was time to get the bus back to Dublin. Although the rain really hindered a lot of the tour, I still had SUCH an amazing time. I can only imagine what it would've been like with cooperating weather!


Lovely view of the cliffs



Back in Dublin, Thursday was devoted primarily to many Irishmen's favorite past time: alcohol. The Old Jameson Distillery was conveniently located right next to my hostel - and while I had heard mixed reviews about their tours, it did not disappoint. While a lot of what the tour consisted of I had previously learned at the Heineken Brewery and Scottish Whisky Tour - it had a nice Irish twist! Apparently the "Dublin way" to drink Jameson is with cranberry and lime. I definitely thought that was a little strange, especially finding out that Jameson and ginger is the ENGLISH way - but upon trying it, I was pleasantly surprised! I guess you should trust the Irish when it comes to knowing about Jameson.





After Jameson we headed over the Guinness Storehouse. As thoroughly impressed with the Heineken Brewery as I was, Guinness may have topped them by a little bit! Firstly, the building is 8 floors, IN THE SHAPE OF A PINT - now, THAT is hard to compete with. In addition, it contains the 9000 year lease originally signed by Arthur Guinness in 1759. 9000 YEARS! The whole thing was self-guided, which is nice for pace - and as I said before, although I knew a lot of it already - the tour did not disappoint (I feel like I say that a lot - Either I'm an easy critic, or just lucky! Hopefully the latter). I have always been a fan of their advertising (the toucan!) so there was a TON of that to look at too. They teach you the "proper" way to drink it in a taste test, and the tour ends on top of the Storehouse in the gravity bar with some complimentary shamrocked Guinness and amazing panoramic views of Dublin. I never really expected myself to semi-enjoy the taste - but it was coffeelike so of courseee I liked it.



Gravity Bar

They make a shamrock with the tap


Our last day, and second day trip in Ireland was Friday. Now, I don't mean to play favorites, but the last day could have been it - and I almost DIDN'T go. Less driving and more interactive, this tour was even smaller than the first! Of course it was initially raining, but luckily, it cleared up by mid-afternoon. The absolute most wonderful tour guide ever TOMMY DANDY led us in his little bus through and around the Wicklow Mountains and into Glendalough. This, too, I had virtually done in the past - but it was pretty far back, making most of it a new experience all over. And I cannot emphasize enough how fantastic our guide Tommy was and how amazing the day was in total. I HIGHLY recommend it to anyone and everyone. While we didn't drive all that far we made lots of stops - if I went into too much detail this entry would be double the obnoxious length it already is. In short: Loch Bray, Oscar Wilde's childhood summer home, alllll through and around Wicklow National Park, the bridge in PS I Love You (Tommy played Galway Girl on the way...adorable), Loch Tay - "Guinness Lake", we stopped for tea and biscuits provided by the lovely Tommy and watched the beautiful sun come out, and had lunch in Glendalough Village - Lynham's of Lara. 


"Guinness Lake"

Tommy then gave us a guided tour of the St. Kevin's Monastery. While it has been TEN YEARS since the first time being there, I remembered so much of it vividly! And I couldn't help but take some "christmas card" photos - as similar as I could get to the originals of me and Conor - and of course, with one of my friends instead of him (sorry, Con!). We then had a few hours to explore the breathtaking upper and lower lakes and trails. All were color-coded depending on how long you wanted to hike for. I think the longest was up to six hours - and I honestly wish I had the time. I feel bad typing this because honestly no word or picture can really describe it. I LOVE IRELAND. I WANT TO LIVE THERE! The eventual drive back ( </3 ) was along the coast of Killiney Bay - unbelievably beautiful, of course. We even drove by Bono and Enya's houses, as well as a house once owned by both Van Morrison and Sean Penn. After saying our dreaded goodbyes and thank yous to the amazing Tommy Dandy we ended our trip at The Brazen Head - the oldest Pub in Ireland -- dating back to 1198!

Monastery 

Ten years later - thanks to Audrey for being my Conor stand-in



Tommy Dandy!

 Killiney Bay

Our flight back to Edinburgh was at 550, leaving not much time for sleep, but so worth it for the amazing week I had. I wish I could do it all over again! Somehow, someway it is already March (where does the time go?!?!?) and my spring break is swiftly approaching - I have no set plans yet, but who knows what will be in store!

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